Restaurant Review: Coppi, Belfast | Food Belfast

In the olden days, romance in the Ferris household comprised of walks through the Jardin du Luxembourg after surprise trips to Paris; long-stemmed roses, truffles and champagne. It was all a bit like Patrick Swayze?s Ghost? well, if you take out the murder, pornographic pottery and most of the plot.

These days, however, with two kids in tow the only ghost you?ll catch us with is Mamba Wamba (that?s the young ?un?s favourite Scooby Doo ghost in case you?re wondering). So with a rare childfree three-hour window we decided to head down to Coppi, the latest restaurant opening to come from the same people behind the Barking Dog and Il Pirata.

Named after Italian cyclist Angelo Fausto Coppi, who dominated the sport on either side of the Second World War, Coppi hopes to bring a more continental feel to St Anne?s Square. There?s a host of Cichetti, small snacks traditionally served in bars throughout Venice, which come in threes, fours or sixes.

I can?t think of a better way to pass an hour or two with a glass of wine and a selection of the snacks. There?s cod fritters that in a near cartoon-esque way disappear on your tongue they?re so light; pickled shallots with a hint of mint and Harissa. There?s the spiced pork and fennel sausage so ravenously good, I?m thinking about getting a 32-link necklace made so I can pop away at them during working hours at my desk, and don?t get me started on the heavenly Feta fritters with a touch of truffled honey.

The restaurant makes its own pasta daily with a monstrous machine out back and as you?d expect from a restaurant such as this there?s a lot to be proud of in the pasta section including a dish of porcini mushroom ravioli that comes with a duck ragu and is the perfect winter dish.

The garlic chicken, with a hint of paprika, pieces of chorizo and saut?ed potatoes with wonderfully sweet red peperonata is also a triumph. But we were there with one thing in mind.

In the previous three occasions I?d been, I?d been politely eyeing up the Steak Florentine for two. What says romance better than a hunk of beef, tomatoes and parmesan fries (well, I did say it?s been a while since I was romantic, didn?t I)?

The interior is beautifully simplistic with leather seats along the walls a massive open kitchen at the far end and a bar area near the door that is perfect to sit at for a Cichetti or two and a glass of cold white wine. But back to the romantic meal? we began with prawns and Focaccia, the latter was perfect for mopping up all the garlicky butter that surrounded the sweet prawns.

I had an awesome lamb pizzetta that was packed full of flavour from the ground lamb, but with a superb crunch from the pomegranate and the red onions.

But we were there for one thing only, that Steak Florentine, the meat coming from Peter Hannan. He brought a European first to Moira, building a Himalayan Salt Mine.

The 12ft wall of hand-cut Himalayan rock salt bricks are used to dry-age the beef and it?s easy to see why he?s went to so much trouble. The steak came out on a wooden board, already sliced up with a simple salad. There?s nothing else to do to such a magnificent piece of meat (and praise to the kitchen for being able to leave it as it is).

It?s depth of flavour was astounding and to smother it in a sauce would have done a grave injustice to it. Cooked perfectly, the ribeye (which comes on the bone) was so tender it?s fat was more like that from lamb ? tender and beautiful to eat.

The parmesan and rosemary fries brought a light balance along with the simple rocket salad and tomatoes. Even with my appetite we left a bit of meat at the end? the Steak Florentine for two may well just be a modern-day high-end Scooby snack. I finished off with a coffee and pear and almond tart ? a moist sponge like dessert that was a perfect end to a superb lunch.

There?s so much to like about Coppi from the exciting atmosphere and friendly waiting staff to a menu that has so many ?must try? dishes that you?ll have to keep on going back again, and again. Now if only life was this good every day? get down and give Coppi a try or Mamba Wamba will be paying you a visit, and you definitely don?t want that, trust me.

Coppi

St Anne?s Square

Tel: 07563 302367

Web: www.coppi.co.uk

John Ferris has worked in the newspaper industry since 1998 and has been a food blogger and newsprint restaurant critic since 2006, writing more than 1,000 food and drink articles ? reviewing hundreds of local restaurants as well as some of the world?s best. John Ferris writes restaurant reviews for the Belfast Media Group and is also a regular contributor on the Carolyn Stewart Lunchtime Bistro show on U105 as well as writing chef profiles for Hospitality Review NI.

Source: http://foodbelfast.com/2013/01/you-dont-stand-a-ghosts-chance-in-coppi/

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